Finding Xolo

(Xoloitzcuintli)  

pronounced (show-low-itz-QUEENT-ly)

When you venture off the beaten path in Mexico you tend to get more than you bargained for. Yes, you certainly can find cheap goods, great food, and even some danger (it’s Mexico after all). Much of the country is under a do not travel advisory from the U.S. State Department so when I was offered a chauffeured tour by a couple of locals, I couldn’t pass it up. The resorts are certainly safe to visit if that’s your cup of tea, but I was in search of something that could only be found outside of the ivory tower. I was seeking an encounter with Xoloitzcuintli (Xolo for short) in its natural habitat. 

Xolo is an ancient hairless dog which served as a companion to the Aztecs and Mayans. It was nearly driven to extinction by the Conquistadors who used it as an easy source of protein. The Xolo breed dates back approximately 3,000-3,500 years and has a rich history. It was given a God like status by the natives and was regularly sacrificed after the death of its owner to guide them into the afterlife. So, a quasi-Indiana Jones type mission to locate a 3,500-year-old dog in an unfamiliar (sometimes hostile) country? Sure, sounds like fun! 

First things first, without my local escorts (friends and former clients of mine) the trip would not have been possible. Let’s just say they navigated some touchy waters on more than one occasion. Although my articles are typically canine centric, human themes are never too distant. Hence, the inseparability of man and dog. I would not have achieved my objective without their help and guidance (spoiler alert). 

Cliché as it may sound, Mexico is a beautiful place. Everywhere I traveled, nature seemed to be interwoven into daily life. I saw exotic birds, monkeys, lemur type animals that I can’t name, reptiles, and many other creatures. The smaller villages and towns seemed to spring up out of the jungle. The coexistence between people and nature was something to be truly admired. This observation certainly includes the relationship between man and dog. As I walked through the streets of some of the smaller towns, I saw many dogs. Some appeared to be strays while some were clearly with owners. All seemed to be relatively tranquil as I saw very few leashes or undesirable canine behaviors. This is also the second country in which I’ve observed a peaceful, very easy going, almost laisses fare canine attitude. The dogs of Thailand bore a striking resemblance behaviorally speaking. This observation once again raises my curiosity with regards to the canine anxiety and aggression issues that clients regularly contact me for in the U.S. I digress, back to the Xolo. 

I located a Xolo on the street. I’m unsure if he belonged to anyone or not. Like I said, the dogs that I encountered were nonchalantly lying about seemingly without a care in the world. The Xolo was no exception. Xoloitzcuintli is a bizarre looking creature. Hairless, except for a few wiry patches, Xolo is unlike any of the dogs that I’ve encountered in the U.S. There are a few breeders in the States for these dogs, but they are certainly not common. To observe Xolo in its natural habitat and to understand the status that the dog once carried in the ancient world is organic. If I were to encounter one of these dogs loose in the U.S. I would probably be half terrified…both by it’s mysterious appearance and because of the truly foreign aura that the dog gives off. Right away it strikes you as something that is almost not of this world, and it bears zero resemblance to anything in the United States. The irony is not lost on me that the dog was used to guide its ancient owners through the underworld. Xolo has a hellish, demon like appearance. However, at least in this case, its outward looks did not match its spirit. This particular Xolo was inexplicably calm, confident, and friendly. He was unphased by the hustle and bustle around him. I exchanged with him from a distance for a few moments and without much effort he provided me with everything I could have desired out of the trip and more. Mission success. To interact with this creature on his own turf, to connect with 3,500 years of ancient history, and to hear the Mayan and Aztec voices from the past coming through this dog was more than I could have hoped for. As previously stated, Mexico gives you more than you bargained for…so does Xolo. A tremendous experience for all who are willing to brave it.